MilkoLS400

Hi Tom.. This belt is totally loose.. Some people think it might be the tensioner failed.. I would be surprized if it did. i changed it as part of the set back in the day. Just a cluster fuck this engine of mine 😉 The car will go. Ill get 250 euros for it and will drive cheap shit untill I can afford a Lexus again. Thanx for the help though 😉 Whenever I find one again you will probably sooner or later find me here again with some malfunctioning electrical system 😜

Hi tom.. how to find out if the engine survived? I have not heared a klunk or anything.. this car was used only for work. About 25k a year. Im far under 90k miles. Drove 125.000 km on this belt. The belt looks extremely cracked. I have never seen a belt like this. I drove quite slow.just pulled up after a corner. Any clue how to find out if the pistons hit the valves? In the usa forum they are very surprized as am I. They think I might have bought a fake branded gates belt at the time..

Tom. Thanx for your help again.. Today I checked it with a LED. The LED was firing. Out of desperation I checked the timing belt and it is snapped.. So all this time I was looking at the wrong place. Is there a chance the engine might still work after changing the belt? I never heared anything like loud noise at al. it just stopped.. But as I remember the 1UZ-FE is interferance. Im am surprized. i should still have 20K on this belt. What is the official timing belt lifespan according to you? I have read that it changes per country. And that general advice is 90K miles.

Hi Tom. I tried measuring the injector power supply. They do get 12V on one side. But i dont get any signal on the earth side. I bypassed the LPG injection computer. I used a scope. No way the secondary side of the injectors get aerth connection or anything else. Where is the earth switched for the injectors? is that in the ECU?

Actually that is exactly how I did it. i sprayed directly in the inlet. i had dismounted the plastics and sprayed in the valve. However I was opening the valve by fully opening the throttle handle. i am not very eager to try again since my hair still smells burned. It is a pitty that the LPG computer is in the middle tapping all fuel injector leads. if I disconnect the LPG ECU the leads will be all open. Well. I hava alot of work today. I will continue my search tomorrow. Maybe find a way to bypass the LPG ECU by connecting some wires on the plug.

Done.. the car almost burned down. After a few turns the gasoline ignited while i was pushing open the air valve. there was a huge flame shooting out and my eyebrows smell roasted now. actually all my hear is burned now. Spraying gasoline in the cars intake maybe wasnt a great idea. If you are OK with it i wont repeat this experiment again. LOL. Any idea about whats next? I think its best to check tomorrow if I have 12V on one sie of the fuel injectors. I read in the manual that the switching occures by applying ground on the injectors and that they always should have +12V. Any other suggestions?

just finished work. Ill will try that now. Can i do that with brake cleaner or should it be gasoline?

So is there a Stationarry valve behind the butterfly valve or none at all? I dont see an opening when starting how so I wonder where the engine should get its air from when starting or running stationary.

Any clue how to use ODBII scanner on this european car? It keeps saying that there is no protocol recognized. I read european cars dont have to by law. Is there an other way to read it using regular software and ODBII reader?

Have you checked the generator yet? --> Not Yet but tried a new fully charged new battery.. No change in cranking speed Have you load tested the battery yet? --> seems normal to drop to 10 volt when starting Have you checked the two ground cable for the engine yet? --> Not yet. But added an extra ground connection to the engine block wit a starter cable. No change. Did you replace the starter with an after market product? --> Yes. 3 years ago. Since then it started super happy and RPM when starting was up compared to the old starter. i dont think its starter motor related since the sudden engine kill has nothing to do with the starter.

OK. Just checked. On the fuel pressure pulsdemper I can feel the pulses on the moment I try to start. Also I have sparks even though they don't look very strong.. It seems the only few things left is that the LPG ECU blocks the injector signals. I think I need to bypass the LPG system somehow.. I also wondered if my throttle body should be open or closed when starting. I thought when its closed I might choke the engine and cause slow starter RPM. I thought maybe I can push it open by hand. But when starting the automatic throttle valve shuts to close. At least that system is still active.. Is there an other stationary valve or solenoid for the air inlet when starting and running stationary? if so can that one be screwed? I was thinking of measuring if i have the +12V on the injector rail at all. Just seems the injectors dont work. since pressure is there and spark is there. The only other thing in the middle is the LPG computer. If you have any other suggestions Im very happy to have your magnifficent help. Cheers

Hi Tom. Great to have you on my issue again. You are the best. I have checked spark today. I must say the spark wasn't strong but it was there. No clue how strong it must be at daylight. i will heck the fuel pressure. And report when i Know.. When I put my finger on the screw should i feel it come out when turning the contact over to ignition or to start? By the way.. Is there a way I can use my ODB2 scanner on this european car? The one I have cant find the right protocol. Any clue on that?

I have a problem that i cant really seem to find. Yesterday I drove My car after picking up my brother. Just around the corner the cars engine suddenly died and stopped. No weird noises or whatever. It happened to me before when the car changed to LPG setting after beeing warmed up. In that case I was always able to start again after putting it in park. This time it just wont run again. A few things stand out: it started quick and happy just 1 minute before it died. I drove 350 meters and it died. Since then starting also feels kind of slow. The starter turns over the engine but it simply turns it over slow. Almost like its having a hard time to get round.. An other thing is the battery voltage drops to 10Volts when starting.. Even when I connect an other car with jump leads and running engine to my battery the voltage drop is quite noticeable and drops to around 10 volts. What can cause the engine to turn round more heavily all of a sudden? i didnt hear any rattling noises or mechanical knocking sounds when starting or driving. Can a battery suddenly get so bad that the engine would die from it? Even though when its not running i measure around 12.2 volts. (i started quite alot) I smell gasoline in the intake manifold. I think injectors are working fine. The starter engine is quite new. I replaced it 3 years ago. It always started fast and since the engine died while running i doubt it has anything to do with the problem. Distribution belt should still have 20.000 Km to go before recommended change. I checked all fuses and relais. Fuel pump relais is functional when manually connected to a battery. it opens up when coil is powered. However when starting I measure 10 volts on the relais coil when I pull out the relais. The relais housing broke and when I look inside the fuel pump relais it is not switching. Also with the fuel relais installed the relais does not break contact when starting. i see no movement on the contact. I think that is weird since I measure a 10V on moment of cranking when the relais is pulled out.. It should open up the relais. The relais coil is still 70 ohm so quite normal. Meaning that the fuel pump relais is not being opened by the measured 10 Volt. I see when the relais is installed I do not measure the 10V at all. The relais coil drains all the power from the supply. I thought these details are quite strange. Ca it be a matter of leaking caps in the ECU? or an other problem maybe? What should I check next?

Hej! I will deffinately give a thunbs up.. but. where can i do that? Hahaha.. I cant find the thumbs up button..

Hi Tom.. I recently received a third ECU for my car. Seems that with this Ecu everything just works fine. I bought it on Ebay in the US. And i didn' t pay much for it. that' s why i tried. Apparently my own and the replacement ecu i bought are faulty.. I have also read an article about capacitors in lexus ecu's going " poof" ... Maybe i can fix both old ecus with new capacitors. I mean. the problem is consistent with bad capacitors.. Looks like they cause a short circuit from time to time. I have heard when capacitors go poof this should be the a possible symptom... Maybe im going at this the wrong way for a long time.. The thing is.. I opened my own original ecu.. Cant see anything wrong on the print. Still need to measure the capacitors.. Well.. Now the company that sold me the replacement ecu doesn' t want to pay back the money i have payd for their faulty part.. Idiots. That really pissed me off. Not only i spend 30 hours in the cold trying to fix the problem because of their faulty product. They also refuse to pay back the money. Payd 250.. they were the only supplier able to react quickly and send the same day.. Thank you for all the good help so far.. I wish it was something that I could have found with your help. You guys are great! What i wonder.. the 11 earth contacts you refer to.. Why is this relevant? I already checked all the ground connections to the ecu itself. They were all grounded.. Do you mean checking the ground contacts on other end of the cables? Cheers..

Im still trying to find the problem.. Nothing is really broken since I know sometimes the light starts working and the ais suspension also works...Its a bad contact somewere.. but were............

Ok Done! it was about 3 half days of work but the car runs again. I have an LPG installation on my car. it took a bit longer to get there. Ill continue my search for the air suspension problem now. Ill keep you guys posted. Cheers!!

I know how to fix the starter.. Ill have to take off the inlet manifold. Its the VVTI version I have. Its a bit more complicated but I think I can do it in 6 hrs.. I did distribution chain and water pump and valve adjustments already when I bought the car. Im good with Mechanics.. But not as talented with electrics when the total schematics are not in my possession. . Ill have to fix the starter first. Its clear what happened. The spring of the solenoid broke and the start relai welded itself. Just on a critical moment like this its very very inconvenient. I guess with 350K on the counter lexusses are getting more and more problems. This is an other stupid bad luck coincidence. I hope I can re-use the gasket for the inlet manifold. Waiting on a gasket from affordable usa Price is not an option. The lexus dealer price is not an option as well. They ask about 10X the normal usa Price.. Once I needed camshaft oil seals.. Victor reinz part was $17 for both sides.. Lexus dealer was 126 euro for the same. Lexus dealers are criminals. Does anyone know a european based provider for lexus parts that are more in the USA price range? Else I hope I can just re-use the old gasket with maybe some help of liquid gasket seal.. Ill have to wait the air suspension repair. First things first. Fix this problem.. Is it just me or are 1995 model ls400 much more reliable?? I have the feeling the 1999 is a bit of a problem model.. It also doesnt feel as strong or direct as the 1995 I had in the past.. I just like the new nose more. But the rest seems to be slightly less quality.. The engine reacts with a bit of a lag due to electronic throttle valve.. The engine is smooth but the old version had more grunt to my memory..b I think if I sort out all problems and the car is a good car again ill try to sell it and go for an older one.. LOL

Im not sure how much bad luck is comming to me suddenly..

I have a new problem now.. My car was just running fine.. Now suddenly my starter engine doesnt stop spinning.. even when I take out the Key its still spinning.. I realize this has nothing to do with the air suspension but if anyone knows what it can be please let me know.. I really need help on this.. Im kind of desperate. I need to use the car this evening to get to belgium.. I was starting and trying to measure some stuff. Apparently due to starting my car alot and stopping again the starter relai is stuck inside. I now probably need to take the entire car apart. Take out the inlet manifold and replace the starter engine.. it even spins the starter when i pull out the start relais in the fusebox.. Fucking Japanese shit Car.

Hi Tom.. No.. DLC1 and DLC2 are both not available in my car.. Only a ODBII connector.. I only checked the ground contacts to the ECU.. They all check out.. You mean I should check ground connections in other places as well?? I remember now. Pin 7 is only the light.. So it makes sens this one doesn't measure 12V when its on High Since nothing happens.. I really wonder what should trigger the ECU to start working. The one day the old ecu worked something must have been triggered.. What I wonder.. On the ECU there are 3 connectors.. i tested and measured the smallest one and most things like height sensor on the biggest connector. i know the height sensor doesn't get 5V, But I cant find out why.. Why Why...... What is the middle connector for? A16 I believe in your schematics..Where does it go to? What inputs are there??

Ok. Due to the weather I did my research today. On A15(A12 in my manual). The smallest connector of the suspension ECU.. The High switch measurements were off. on pin 5 I did het 0 and 12 V in stead of 0 and ca 5 V. And on Pin 7 I got 0.66V in both positions.. I could not perform pin 6 and 11 check due to the missing TDCL connector. The strange thing is that I earlyer measured the Hight switch circuit already using the online manual. http://lexus-doc.ru/ileaf/lex99rm/lex99rms/99lexrm/99ls400r/di/emas1/ci86.pdf According to this manual 12V is the proper voltage in the Norm position so the high switch circuit checked out fine.. I Think its an other difference in design between new and old cars.. So only the Pin 7 measurements are still questionable.. I have not found the test procedure for this pin in my manual yet. Where does pin 7 come from??

I will do that again tomorrow. measure your A15,, =My A12. i did take a better look at my car. the H15 connector in your car is not there in mine. Before I thought I had found it but i had already measured all the circuits on the ECU connector itself. Now I tried to test things again but this time your way on the H15.. the test connector.. But as you can see its not the same in my car.. . I seem to have a non standard car.. in the manual online my 1999 model should not have ODBII and also now I find out my suspension test connector is missing... Do I have some kind of revised car or did idiots work on it?? Or were it genius people who worked on it?? LOL Tomorrow Ill post my findings on all measurements on A15.

Just went out to meassure the connections. I can only meassure that the white black cables are all grounded.. Moving around the connectors doesn't change allot.. What I wonder. What made the car work last saturday?? Why it started working half way my street and worked for about one hour perfectly... with my old ECU... The new one didn' t do anything..

Ok I will meassure the ground cables to the ECU. Thanx for the hint..