Do Not Sell My Personal Information Jump to content


Sprinter2012

Mitglied
  • Gesamte Inhalte

    72
  • Benutzer seit

  • Letzter Besuch

Profile Information

  • Fahrzeug
    Lexus IS200 Sport
  • Land
    Anderes
  • Standort
    England, UK
  • Geschlecht
    Männlich

Sprinter2012's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

0

Ansehen in der Community

  1. I believe they are glued on with double sided tape, so if you remove them you must acquire some new tape to put them back on. Google Translate: Ich glaube, sie werden auf mit doppelseitigem Klebeband verklebt, so dass, wenn Sie sie entfernen, müssen Sie einige neue Band zu erwerben, um sie wieder auf. Not sure if the translation is correct or not?
  2. Here you go, this chart shows how much area the pads will contact with the different options. I have included the Supra pads and discs to be a fair comparison. As you can see, the FIGS brackets with Supra discs are 9.14% bigger than OEM, and the Supra calipers with Supra discs are 13.93% bigger than the FIGS option. EDIT: And here is the forumla I created to calculate the surface area =((3.142*((C6/2)^2))-(3.142*((C7/2)^2)))/100
  3. This is another good point, you get much less brake fade when doing lots of braking because the discs can cool down faster and soak up more heat :)
  4. You are wrong, because the caliper is mounted on the outside of the disc, you use the 323mm part. The bit on the inside gives the smallest force, and that is the bit you do not use.
  5. The FIGS brackets for the Supra discs are here, which is a whole new bracket for the caliper. You get lots for your money... But to fit Supra calipers, you have to spend over 100EUR for these tiny little bits...
  6. You do not need to subtract measurements to calculate force between the different discs. Because the adapters put the pad on the outside of the disc, you only use the part with the strongest force. So because the pad area stays the same, you can use the equation posted above to work it out. (this was information provided by the owner of FIGS, who designed the brackets) The trouble is, people who are not good at maths think that you can only increase power by making everything bigger. But if you understand maths and science then you will know that these brackets will give a good improvement for a lot less money. And I know this because I have a set on my car and they work great! Also, if you use Supra calipers then you will make the brake balance wrong and will lock up the front wheels easily, dangerous in winter and in wet conditions...
  7. The benefits are because the disc is bigger, you get more braking power. And less pad wear during normal driving.
  8. The adapters I have will still fit inside a 17" wheel too which is good because you can use them with OEM wheels. I am just using OEM Toyota Supra TT (323mm) discs with OEM Lexus pads. When the pads wear out I might swap to EBC Greenstuff which should give even more braking power. And if I have some spare money I might get some slotted discs too, but not for a while because they are fine as they are :)
  9. Yes you are right they do not use the whole surface of the disc, but they still give more force than OEM. I was going to use Supra calipers, but they will not fit under most wheels because they are so big! And as you say, they are also very expensive for a used item. Thanks for the information on selling :)
  10. They are a very easy modification to do, takes a couple of hours. You get much better braking force, and less heat build up because of the bigger discs. It also means when you are driving normally the brake pads wear less :) I have posted my guide on how to install them HERE... Also, I'm not sure what the rules are, but I have a pair of the brackets here to sell. Because FIGS sent me two sets to save on postage...
  11. And here is a better quality picture of the finished mod...
  12. Started off with stock calipers, on stock brackets, on stock discs, like this... First step is to undo the slide pin bolts using a 14mm spanner on the back, and a 17mm on the pin itself to stop it rotating. You may not need the 17mm spanner, but if you plan to re-use the dust boots it's better to use it anyway or you risk tearing them... Then put the caliper out of the way on an axle stand for now... Once they are off, you can remove the caliper brackets. This is super easy as all you have to do is undo the two 17mm bolts that hold the caliper bracket onto the hub. With the old bracket off, you can start assembling the new brackets, the first thing I did was to press the new dust boots in. Simply slot a socket over the top of the rubber boot so it rests on the metal collar, and either tap it in with a hammer, or squeeze it in with a vice like I did... I then removed the slide pins, changed the rubber bush on the pin, greased it up and put it into the corresponding hole on the new bracket (make sure they go in the right hole as they are different!) I then removed, and refitted the pad retaining/slide clips into the new brackets and greased them up too... Next job was the dust shields, most people just cut these off completely. But being an engineer that seemed too simple, plus I wanted to keep the cooling effects of the air duct at the front of the shield. You can also just bend them back out of the way but that seemed too ghetto and again, too easy. So I put slots all the way along the sections of the dust shield which overhang the top and bottom of the old disc like this... I then bent them upwards, chopped them off and smoothed off the edge so I was now left with this perfectly fitting and still fully functioning air duct/dust shield... With the discs now able to fit properly and the mounting hardware transferred onto the new brackets I slid the discs on, put the new pads into the brackets and remounted them over the disc onto the hub... The only job left then was to press the pistons back into the calipers and bolt them back onto the brackets, forget to take a picture of them without the wheel, and then have to take a crappy picture through a very dirty wheel... I've only put about 20 miles through them so far but I'm already finding myself stopping short at junctions and slowing down too much coming into corners, so I can't wait to see how they perform once they are properly bedded in! And just for comparison so you can see the difference in size between the old and new here's a gif I made to show the two sizes...
  13. Just bought these, which should help me out with my next mod which I'll be purchasing soon...
  14. Thanks for all the comments guys :) The SMD bulbs I used are these ones... 2 x 286/T5 and 3 x 501/T10 Very good quality thick PCB so they do not wobble, not like the cheap plastic holders. I have tried the cheap plastic ones before, and used 3 sets before I found these good ones, they have been on my car over a year with no problems. And you may think my bumper is a replaca 8thsin, but it is genuine! :) I have done custom work to chop out the number plate holder, so when I fit an intercooler it does not cover it. And I also put carbon fibre on the centre bar myself because I wanted something different. Here are some pictures of the work to prove it...
  15. I got it from eBay, I can't remember the seller. But it was the same product as this... normally they are called 3" JDM Antenna http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dodge-3-76-mm-Black-Carbon-Fiber-Screw-Type-Aluminum-Universal-Short-Antenna-/181006835633?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a24d91fb1
×
×
  • Neu erstellen...

Important Information

Datenschutzerklärung